What an armpit. Mamallapuram is known for it's stone carving both at the consumer level and historically. There are a number of sights made of stone carvings including temples carved out of hillsides. I saw all those things, and visited a few stone carvers but for me the lasting impression is the poverty there, and the grudge factor. The village is teaming with overpriced tourist hotels. $25 for a dump. I ended up at a hotel for $10 a night which later I realized if I wanted ventilation at night I would have to leave the terrace door open. They were plenty willing to let me switch rooms if I wanted to pay $25 per night. Finally I ended up in a room that instead of overlooking the courtyard, overlooked the street and this is where I saw the underbelly more clearly. It was the India that feedthestarvingchristianchildreninindia had planted in my American brain. There was group of young men, women and children living on the street, selling bead necklaces. They were filthy and the children were all but naked. Now, there was a whole ocean a block away so there was no reason for filthy. As I was leaving, I inquired about these people and was told they were gypsies and that the man was always drunk. I have no idea what gypsy means in India. Homeless? I had a suspicion that there was more than mere poverty going on with these people. I am coming to the realization that poverty everywhere, the 3rd world and the 1st world, is not a simple as having no job or money. It is a complex problem of addictions, lack of opportunity, hopelessness, and values that don't support mainstream jobs. There is no simple solutions, anywhere. I have been in India for about a month and half, living with artists in Kerala but Mamallapuram was culture shock for me. I had been living a gentle friendly existence and now was confronted by the relentless pursuit of poverty. Thankfully, I had been traveling with Rakesh, a friend from grad school, who taught me about upscale travel which I fully embraced although it may mean I go home early.
